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Reviews

This category contains 53 posts

Pop-up review: Iraqi brunch at JUMA Kitchen

I’d travel anywhere for a good babka. Anywhere my Oyster card can take me, for a start. Perhaps even further – I’ll take any opportunity to go back to New York City, where I tried it for the first time (at Breads Bakery, no less). Eastern Europe and the Middle East, where different versions of … Continue reading

Cafe review: Rawligion, Fitzrovia

Not long ago, I thought vegan desserts were half-baked surrogates for what’s truly good in life. I made egg- and dairy-free cookies before, and was pleased with the result – but let’s face it, every time I think of cookies, it’s buttery dough and white chocolate chunks that spring to mind first. There was one … Continue reading

Notes London: a review of underwhelming coffee and glorious cake

Welcome to Dissonant Notes and Mixed Opinions: a serial in four parts, starring me and three branches of London’s independent coffee chain Notes. Episode 1 I order coffee at the Covent Garden cafe, and learn a whole new routine of grimaces. At the beginning, I’m thrilled I’m being served something I recognise as a macchiato: … Continue reading

Cookbook review: Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour

As far as cooking goes, Sabrina Ghayour‘s Persiana is the best thing that happened to me in the past year. I’d never say that lightly; least of all this month, after my landlord refurbished our kitchen, getting rid of the drab, tattered ’80s furniture we’ve been stuck with for years. Being able to run hot … Continue reading

Restaurant review: Piebury Corner, Holloway Road

When I was a kid, there were very few girls my age in my neighbourhood, and most of my playmates were football-obsessed boys. Up to the age of around 11, I used to spend most afternoons playing with them in the streets nearby. Our homes were huddled at the end of a dead-end road, where … Continue reading

Restaurant review: Al Waha, Bayswater

My love for Lebanese food harks back to many years ago, when a small family-run Middle-Eastern restaurant opened, of all places, in my sleepy hometown in the middle of nowhere. Back then, in the early 2000s, it was the talk of the town; I’d go there often, both with friends and family, as it was … Continue reading

Pop-up review: La Piazza by House of Peroni, Brick Lane

To many Italians, Peroni is the first name that comes to mind when thinking of beer; years of clever advertising and strategic positioning on supermarket shelves have made the brand almost a byword for the stuff. If Dairy Milk bars spring to your mind every time you crave chocolate, you’ll know what I’m talking about; and … Continue reading

A sweet tooth’s guide to Lisbon’s cafes

Lisbon’s cafes are spartan, no-frills establishments, made for the only purpose of sitting down, ordering food, and consuming as much of it as you please while relaxing with friends or family. You get lots of places like these in Italy, almost none in London; there’s something refreshing to eating in a place where you’re simply … Continue reading

Cafe Review: Pastéis de Belém, West Lisbon

All the great Portuguese explorers that changed the world with their discoveries, from Magellan to Bartholomeu Dias and Vasco de Gama, began their voyages from the district of Belém, in Western Lisbon. This fact alone was enough to spark my curiosity; and yet, I enjoyed Belém far less than I did the rest of the … Continue reading

Postcards from Broadgate Circle, and the opening of Beany Green

I’m not in Broadgate Circle often, and judging from my few visits so far, I should stop by more. I usually get out of Liverpool Street tube to head to Spitalfields Market and Brick Lane; every time I’ve found myself on the other side of the train station, I’ve found a surprise waiting for me. … Continue reading

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